Considerations on Converting Needle Knitting Patterns to Patterns for the Round Loom & Rake

In loom knitting, all of the rows are knit on the right side (RS). This is true for both circular and flat panel knitting. Needle knitting is different. It is the same for circular knitting but it is not for flat. Because needle knitting alternates between right side (RS) and wrong side (WS) rows, you will need to convert the wrong side (WS) row stitches. Normally these are the even row stitches but you need to read the pattern to determine whether the even or the odd row stitches are wrong side (WS). In addition, the even rows need to be worked in the opposite order. So, when the even rows are WS, they need to be converted and the stitches worked in the opposite order; when the even rows are RS, they only need to be worked in the opposite order. Odd rows will generally stay as written. On the occasions that they are WS, they will need to be converted. Odd rows are never worked in opposite order. To help you keep all of this straight during the conversion process, it's highly recommended that you chart it out. Information on how to do this is presented in Step 2 in the section below on how to convert patterns.

Converting Needle Knitting Patterns to
Patterns for the Knitting Board

Straight conversion of needle knitting patterns to the knitting board is similar to the round loom and rake. It may feel somewhat odd to convert patterns though since one doesn't generally setup each individual stitch to match a pattern like you do on the round loom or rake. If you are a knitting board knitter who prefers to rely on the known stitch patterns, you may prefer to adapt patterns instead of converting.

When you convert, you can either make both side of the fabric the same or you can make one side of the fabric match the pattern and the other side Stockinette. Which one you choose will determine which wrapping pattern you'll use. If you want both sides of the fabric to be the same, use the Stockinette diagonal wrapping method. If you would like stockinette on the opposite side of the converted pattern, use a modified Zig Zag diagonal wrapping method. To modify it, keep the zig zag going in the same direction wrapping from left to right and from right to left. Otherwise you will end up with a plaited look which may not be what you want. It will still lean in one direction but it will do so uniformly. Make sure to note it in the converted pattern and/or your knitting journal for future use.

Once you chosen which diagonal wrap method to use, use the correct basic stitch wrap (knit, knit tbl, purl, purl tbl and slip stitches) for each peg. This will ensure that your stitches are the same in the finished project as in the pattern. You can use stitch patterns but be aware that even symmetrical wrapping patterns are not the same on each side but similar so it may not match the pattern. For example, using the diagonal wrap method for a double rib stitch pattern produces k3, *p2, k2; rep from * end k3 on one side and on the other side produces k2, *p2, k2; rep from * end k2. This will become noticeable when joining fabric, e.g., two sides of a sweater.

Below is a list of the similarities and differences between converting to the round loom & rake and the knitting board. It is highly recommended that you chart out the pattern to make it easier to setup the knitting board for your knits and purls. See Converting Needle Knitting Patterns below for more information.

How it's similar

• The right side (RS) of the fabric always faces you. In this case, it does on both the front and the back of the fabric. Decide ahead of time if you want both sides to be the same or different.
• You will need to convert the wrong side (WS) rows in the pattern. With the exception of the stitches noted below, convert the stitches the same way as in Converted Stitches Table.

How it's different

• Increases. You are limited to the lifted increase and the yarn over (YO) increase on the knitting board. Unless the pattern specifically calls for a YO increase, use the lifted increase for all of your increases. This won't be an exact match in certain cases, such as the bar increase. See increase stitches for information about how to work these stitches. Remember to check the slant on both sides of the fabric.
• Decreases. Remember that the slant needs to be correct for the fabric. Make sure that you pair each side of the fabric with the correct slant. For example, if a K2tog increase is called for on one side, use the SSK on the other. See decrease stitches for more information.

Tip: since you will be wrapping each peg with either Stockinette or Zig Zag diagonal wrapping method, you will be able to increase and decrease anywhere on the board without changing the wrapping pattern.

Adapting Needle Knitting Patterns to
Patterns for the Knitting Board

The other option you have is to adapt current stitch patterns available on the knitting board to the stitch patterns in the needle knitting pattern. For many patterns, this is a viable alternative. It's not unusual that a pattern will use a stitch pattern through sections that you can then adapt and then you can leave the more complicated patterns to a straight conversion.

You may find it helpful to chart the pattern before determining which stitch patterns to use. Charting will give you a better idea of how the finished pattern will look. See Converting Needle Knitting Patterns below for more information.

Gauge

No discussion on conversion would be complete with a mention of gauge. It is very important that you check the gauge, whether it is on the round loom & rake or the knitting board. On the knitting board, you have the extra issue of the slip stitch between the rakes (see How it works in Knitting Boards). This will alter the gauge which is why wrapping patterns for the same stitch have different guages. If you need to adjust the pattern, see Different Gauge in the article Substituting Yarn.

Twisted Stitches and Gauge

Twisted stitches on the round loom & rake and on the knitting board are bigger than their straight stitches; this is the opposite in needle knitting. This is important to keep in mind because it may change the gauge of the pattern which will affect the size. Always be sure to knit a swatch to check the gauge. If the gauge is bigger, you'll need to either use a smaller gauge loom or you will need to convert the pattern. For information on how to convert the pattern see Different Gauges in the article Substituting Yarn.

Converting Stitches

Stitch Pattern Adaption

Step 1: Determine which Rows are Right Side (RS) and which are Wrong Side (WS)

The first thing you need to do whenever you want to convert a pattern is determine which row is the right side (RS) of the fabric and which is the wrong side (WS). Needle knitting, unlike loom knitting, switches back and forth between knitting on the RS and the WS of the fabric. Since loom knitting is always done on the RS of the fabric, WS rows in needle knitting patterns need to be converted. Converting a stitch means using the opposite stitch, for example, a knit stitch for a purl stitch or a purl stitch for a knit stitch. A complete table of converted stitches is available under Converting Stitches.

Usually, the even rows (R2, R4, R6, etc.) are WS but sometimes this is not the case. When reading a pattern the first row is normally marked as either RS or WS. However it is marked, all of the odd rows will be the same and all of the even rows will be the opposite. In the stitch pattern above, the odd rows are marked as RS so that means the even rows are WS. We now know that the even rows must be converted.

Step 2: Chart the Pattern

You don't have to chart the pattern but it will make the process much easier. Once it's charted, writing down the pattern will be a snap. There are many different ways to go about charting. Choose the one that fits your style.

• Pencil & Paper. Not tech savvy? This may be the easiest method for you. Use graph paper (there is free special knitting graph paper if you'd like to get fancy) and a pencil and go to it. You can either use standard symbols like those found in Vogue or you can make up your own. Whatever you decide to use, make sure to keep a legend.
• Special Fonts & Word Processor or Spreadsheet. You can setup a table in your favorite word processor or use a spreadsheet (e.g., the free and open source Open Office's Writer and Calc) along with one of the free knitting fonts available (see Software for more information).
• Charting Software. There are several different charting software available for knitters on both the Windows and Macintosh platforms (see Software for more information). All of them will chart a needle knitting pattern but you may have to convert it to loom knitting yourself if you'd prefer the pattern instead of just the chart.

• R1 (RS): *K3, P2, K1; rep from * to end
• R2: *K2, P2, K2; rep from * to end
• R3: *K1, P2, K3; rep from * to end
• R4: *K3, P2, K1; rep from * to end
• R5: *K2, P2, K2; rep from * to end
• R6: *K1, P2, K3; rep from * to end

Tip: For some stitch patterns, you will find it easier to chart two or three times the number of stitches called for so you can see the repeat. You may also want to double or triple the number of rows called for, too. When charting a pattern, however, this is not necessary.

Step 3: Write Down the Pattern: Round Loom & Rake

The round loom & rake writes out the pattern the same way that it is knit. The odd rows are written moving on the chart from right to left (as you knit them) and the even rows are written moving on the chart from left to right (as you knit them). So the above pattern now becomes

• R1: *K3, P2, K1; rep from * to end
• R2: *K2, P2, K2; rep from * to end
• R3: *K1, P2, K3; rep from * to end
• R4: *K1, P2, K3; rep from * to end
• R5: *K2, P2, K2; rep from * to end
• R6: *K3, P2, K1; rep from * to end

Step 3: Write Down the Pattern: Knitting Board, Option 1

There currently isn't a standard way to write out converted patterns for the knitting board. The following is one suggestion until a standard is agreed upon. A second suggestion follows in Step 3b. Be sure to note on the converted pattern which suggestion you used. After all of your hard work, you don't want to end up knitting it incorrectly.

This option is suggested to be used with the Stockinette diagonal wrap method. You will find it easier to keep both sides of the fabric the same for this one instead of having one side as the converted pattern and the other in Stockinette. Again, make sure to note it in the converted pattern and/or your knitting journal for future use.

1. Write all of the rows from left to right as you start wrapping the beginning of each row for the Stockinette diagonal method. The above pattern would then become
   
   
   • R1: *K1, P2, K3; rep from * to end
   • R2: *K2, P2, K2; rep from * to end
   • R3: *K3, P2, K1; rep from * to end
   • R4: *K1, P2, K3; rep from * to end
   • R5: *K2, P2, K2; rep from * to end
   • R6: *K3, P2, K1; rep from * to end

Each peg would wrap the working yarn above or below the current wrap on the peg depending on whether it was a knit or purl.

If the row is long and you find it difficult to read the line backwards, you can write it out both directions:

• R1a: *K1, P2, K3; rep from * to end
  R1b: *K3, P2, K1; rep from * to end
• R2a: *K2, P2, K2; rep from * to end
  R2b: *K2, P2, K2; rep from * to end
• R3a: *K3, P2, K1; rep from * to end
  R3b: *K1, P2, K3; rep from * to end
• R4a: *K1, P2, K3; rep from * to end
  R4b: *K3, P2, K1; rep from * to end
• R5a: *K2, P2, K2; rep from * to end
  R5b: *K2, P2, K2; rep from * to end
• R6a: *K3, P2, K1; rep from * to end
  R6b: *K1, P2, K3; rep from * to end

Step 3: Write Down the Pattern: Knitting Board, Option 2

This is the second suggestion for how to write out the converted pattern. This option is suggested to be used with a modified Zig Zag diagonal wrap method. Make sure the you keep the zig zag going in the same direction wrapping from left to right and from right to left. Otherwise you will end up with a plaited look which may not be what you want. It will still lean in one direction but it will do so uniformly. When using the Zig Zag diagonal wrap method, you can either keep the stitches the same on both sides of the fabric or make one side entirely stockinette. Again, make sure to note it in the converted pattern and/or your knitting journal for future use.

2. Write the odd rows from left to right and the even from right to left (opposite of the round loom & rake). This matches the way you knit with a Zig Zag diagonal pattern though you would need to modify it. See Converting to the Knitting Board for more information. This option would make the pattern be
   
   
   • R1: *K1, P2, K3; rep from * to end
   • R2: *K2, P2, K2; rep from * to end
   • R3: *K3, P2, K1; rep from * to end
   • R4: *K3, P2, K1; rep from * to end
   • R5: *K2, P2, K2; rep from * to end
   • R6: *K1, P2, K3; rep from * to end
   
   

The second row would look like this, worked from right to left:

Each peg would wrap the working yarn above or below the current wrap on the peg depending on whether it was a knit or purl.

Step 4: Knit!

Once you have the pattern written out, you're ready to work the pattern. Have fun!