Socks & Slippers

Socks and slippers are easy to knit on round looms. You use a combination of both circular and flat panel knitting. The leg, gusset and sometimes the toe use circular knitting and the heel, turn heel and sometimes the toe use flat panel knitting. If your round loom isn't adjustable, use one of the diagonal heel and toe methods. The techniques you'll use are similar to needle knitting though some changes may be necessary. Free patterns are available from the menu on the right. They are all easy to do but you may find it easier to start with the Blue Knifty Knitter and then from there, move on to more advanced socks and using smaller gauge looms.

Toe Up vs. Top Down

Socks can be knit on the loom either from the tip of the toe up to the cuff of the leg (toe up) or from the cuff down (top down). Many loom knitters find it easier to use oval shaped looms to knit toe up socks and the round ones to knit top down. Each has their advantages and disadvantages but it generally comes down to personal preference in how you knit them. Patterns for both are provided on this site so you can play and see which method you prefer. (Coming soon.)

Stitch Pattern Placement

Basic patterns for socks and slippers are generally found in the leg and the top of the foot. For comfort, single stitch patterns such as Stockinette are normally worked on the heel, bottom of the foot and toe.

Color

Unlike stitch patterns, color can be used anywhere in the sock. You can create any pattern you'd like from unusual abstract to classic using entrelac and intarsia techniques.

Advanced Instructions

There is a very simple sock pattern for the Blue Knifty Knitter below. There are also simple sock instructions for other gauge looms from the menu on the right. For more advanced patterns on smaller gauge looms, please see the instructions on Decor Accent's Inc. website. Isela Phelps has created a standardized set of instructions that are easy to follow but geared for an intermediate loom knitter.

Parts of Socks and Slippers

The tabbed section below contains guidelines and tips for working each part of a sock. There are many ways to make socks (e.g., seamed, sideways, and tubular (no heel)) but no matter what type of sock you work, if you understand the parts, you'll have an easier time knitting each section. Remember that the guidelines below are just that: guidelines. You will see variations in your patterns but will see the basics in each.

Leg & Cuff
Heel & Turn Heel
Gusset
Foot
Toe & Turn Toe
Sample Pattern

The leg is the first part that you will knit on the loom in a top down sock and the last in a toe up sock. It is knit using circular knitting and the length and stitch used will depend upon the sock. Suggested stitches include the double stitch, stitch patterns such as ribbing (k1 p1, k2 p2, etc.), and knit or knit tbl (e-wrap) stitches. For extra warmth in slippers, consider using the hat brim method at the top. This can only be used in toe down socks.

Some socks will also have a "cuff" section which is above the leg. For many socks, this section is the same pattern as the leg but for others, it varies, whether it varies in stitch pattern or color.

Size

The heel and turn heel are knit as short rows and are half of the size of the sock. So if the loom has 24 pegs, the heel will start with 12 and the turn heel will end with 12. Both will be worked with flat knitting method. They are knit with a single stitch stitch pattern such as Stockinette stitch and are worked by slipping the first stitch of every row. This makes it easier to pick up the gusset stitches and adds durability and padding to the area.

As the section is knit, a stitch is decreased on each side in each row in the heel and increased on each side in each row of the turn heel. Both are made up of one third the number of rows there are stitches across. So if you start with 12 stitches across, you would knit 4 rows, decreasing a stitch on each side as you go for the heel and you would knit 4 rows, increasing a stitch on each side as you go for the turn heel. If you start with 20, you would knit 6 or 7 rows for each, if you start with 30, you would knit 10 for each, and so on.

Placement

When knitting socks, the placement of the heel determines where the beginning of the round is:

  • Heel centered: The round begins in the back of the leg with each section of the heel on either side

  • Heel follows: The round begins on the side of the leg, prior to the beginning of the heel

Avoiding Holes

To avoid holes, the turn edge of the turn heel and sometimes the heel are knit with one of the methods discussed in the Short Rows section. One is not better than another so use the one that feels the most comfortable to you.

The gusset is the first section worked in the round after the turn heel in a top down sock and the section worked before the turn heel in a toe up sock. It will work the stitch pattern for the sock in the instep and will continue to work single stitch stitch patterns on the sole. To keep the gusset from forming holes and to add extra padding and strength, use a similar method of avoiding holes as discussed in Short Rows.





With the foot, you are back to knitting the entire loom using methods for avoiding holes as with Short Rows. The foot is knitted 2 inches shorter than the desired length to leave room for the toe. If you would like to change the size of a sock or slipper, add or subtract from the length of the foot. Some patterns that will give instructions for several different sizes but often all that is needed is either a different gauge loom or a different weight yarn in addition to changing the length of the foot. So the rule of thumb is:

  • Larger socks: larger gauge loom, heavier weight yarn and/or longer foot section

  • Smaller socks: smaller gauge loom, lighter weight yarn and/or shorter foot section
There are plusses and minuses to some of these. Some will require an adjustment to the pattern and others will not.

Methods

There are several different ways to knit a toe and turn toe. Here are four examples:

  • Knit two flat pieces, each starting at half the size of the loom. Like the heel and heel turn, one-third the number of rows as stitches are worked. The toe and the turn toe are decreased one stitch on each side for each row. Each piece should come out to 2 inches in length. The two flat pieces are then sewn together with either a mattress stitch or via grafting. Be careful to hide the knot in a place that will not rub the foot.

  • Knit the toe and turn toe just as the heal and turn heel as one piece. Each section is one-third the number of rows as stitches and the toe decreases one stitch on each side for each row whereas the turn toe increases one stitch on each side for each row. The graft bind-off, kitchener stitch method is then used to bind-off leaving no seam.

  • Knit the sock on an adjustable loom which will allow you to decrease stitches while you knit circularly.

  • Knit a tube and use the provisional bind-off method to gather the end. This will, however, leave bunching at the end of the toe.

Avoiding Holes

To avoid holes, the turn edge of the turn toe and sometimes the toe are knit with one of the methods discussed in the Short Rows section. One is not better than another so use the one that feels the most comfortable to you.

Sample Pattern

This simple pattern is a standard length, top down sock worked on a Knifty Knitter Blue Round Loom for women sizes 6-10 and is available in the Free Sock Patterns section. The pattern calls for a knit stitch in the Single Rib and Stockinette stitches not a knit tbl (e-wrap) stitch. It's a heavy duty sock great for kicking around the house or walking. If you would like to use a knit tbl (e-wrap) stitch, you will need to adjust for the gauge accordingly.

The Pattern

There are two different versions of the pattern: standard and "English." Choose the one that fits your reading patterns skill level. If you are not familiar with reading patterns and would like to use the standard pattern instead of the "English" pattern, see Reading Patterns & Charts.

Please note that the patterns are licensed differently:

Requirements

You should be familiar with the following to work this pattern:


Software For Sock Patterns

In addition to getting patterns from books, there is software available to help you create your own patterns. Two are listed below along with information on how to use the software with the looms. If you are making socks for someone else and are not sure what measurements to put in the software, consider using the charts from the Sock Size Research Project.

Arachne Sock Calculator

The Arachne Sock Calculator is a free on-line sock pattern calculator created by E. Stockes Reynolds. Simply enter the gauge and measurements and select hand knitting. You will need to convert the flat knitting portion of the directions. The patterns created by this software will require the use of an adjustable loom if you knit it as is. See the vendor list to obtain an adjustable loom if you don't already have one. Please consider contacting the author to let her know that the looming community is interested in having her add an option for instructions for the loom.

Sock Wizard by Knitting Software

It's possible to use Knitting Software's Sock Wizard for patterns on the loom. Version 1 for Mac OSX and Version 2 for Windows (coming soon) has an option to use one circular needle. You may need to make some modifications to the the pattern if you are using a round loom that doesn't adjust, but the modifications are not difficult to make if you understand the basic construction of a sock.

Decor Accents, Inc. EFG Sock Looms

If you are using one of Decor Accents, Inc. EFG sock looms with a pattern generated by Sock Wizard, you will need to change the leg circumference size so that the number of stitches will match the number of pets on the loom. The chart below gives a suggested range of leg circumference sizes for Standard and Ankle style socks using yarn with a gauge of 8x12" for 1x1" (2.5x2.5 cm) for the knit stitch and a gauge of 7x10" for 1x1" (2.5x2.5 cm) for the knit tbl stitch. This is generally a fine (2) weight yarn such as sock yarn. This circumference can be used regardless of category (Infant/Todder, Child, Youth, Woman, Man or Holiday). Remember to check your gauge before knitting your sock or the pattern will not come out the way you expect. If your gauge is different, you will need to adjust the leg circumference accordingly.

Leg Circumference Range
for DA EFG Sock Looms
Size No. Pegs Knit Stitch Knit tbl Stitch
11.5" 80 9.88-10.12 11.29-11.57
11" 76 9.38-9.62 10.72-10.99
10.5" 72 8.88-9.12 10.15-10.42
10" 68 8.38-8.62 9.58-9.85
9" 64 7.88-8.12 9.0-9.28
8.5" 60 7.38-7.62 8.43-8.71
8" 56 6.88-7.12 7.86-8.14
7" 48 5.88-6.12 6.72-6.99
6" 40 4.88-5.12 5.58-5.85
5" 36 4.38-4.62 5.0-5.28

Decor Accents, Inc. FG Sock Looms

If you are using one of Decor Accents, Inc. FG sock looms with a pattern generated by Sock Wizard, you will also need to change the leg circumference size so that the number of stitches will match the number of pets on the loom. If you use a FG Mini Wonderloom, FG Wonderloom or FG AJAL, this will not be necessary. The chart below gives a suggested range of leg circumference sizes for Standard and Ankle style socks using yarn with a gauge of 6x7.5" for 1x1" (2.5x2.5 cm) for the knit stitch and a gauge of 5x6.25" for 1x1" (2.5x2.5 cm) for the knit tbl stitch. This is generally a light (3) weight yarn such as baby weight. This circumference can be used regardless of category (Infant/Todder, Child, Youth, Woman, Man or Holiday). Remember to check your gauge before knitting your sock or the pattern will not come out the way you expect.

Leg Circumference Range
for DA FG Sock Looms
Name Size No. Pegs Knit Stitch Knit tbl Stitch
XXL Adult 10-10.5" 48 7.87-8.16 10.15-10.42
XL Adult 9-9.5" 44 7.17-7.49 9.0-9.28
L Adult 8.5" 40 6.5-6.83 8.43-8.71
Youth 8" 36 5.84-6.16 7.86-8.14
Child 7" 34 5.5-5.83 6.72-6.99
Toddler 6" 32 5.17-5.49 5.58-5.85
Infant 5" 28 4.5-4.83 5.0-5.28